Fixing Lovense Max


#1

Hi there,
I have a Lovense Max and it doesn’t work anymore. Because it’s out of guarante, I want to fix it.
I opened the cap and saw, that there where loose cable connection (bad solder points).

Please share a wiring diagram or photos of your cable connetion.
Then I can develop, test and contribute to this great software tools.


#2

Huh. Haven’t actually disassembled my Max yet. How hard was it to get the cap off?


#3

Sorry for the slow answer, I hadn’t max with me.
You have to pull tight, a little bit to the back side (point of view: looking towards front buttons & LED). There are 4 “tongue and groove” (one every 90°), one is under the buttons. Be aware the cap can get a very small crack.
An other problem is, it doesn’t charge and the LEDs are off. I rotated the charging cable 180°.
I think, that I figured out, the loose cable connection, but not what is the accumulator, …
Next step (with community support) identifying the actuatuors (brand, model) and finding datasheets …


#4

Hello,
I hope this helps. I did my best to photograph the solder points on the board and where each wire goes.

Here’s one item to note once you get yours up and running: When the Max is powered on, pressing the air pump button for about 5 seconds makes it fill the air bladders essentially making it tighter overall. This is not documented in the manual.


#5

Wow. Thanks! I’ll try getting mine apart soon to get you pictures.


#6

Thanks @max_user!
I used your pictures and created a “wiring diagram”. @max_user please confirm the matching numbers!
Note: My circuit is version 4, your version is 5.

My current problem is, that max isn’t charging :frowning:


#7

@max I measure 4.5v DC at 1 & 2 with my charger connected. From connections 3 & 4 I measured 4.0v DC with the charger connected. With the charger removed, 3&4 measured 3.8v.

The charging cable is a simple straight thru USB-A cable. From the flat end with the pins facing the floor, pin 1 on the left is your +5vDC, pin 4 on the right is your ground.

check the continuity of your cable; If nothing start at the round end. The magnetic connector seems rather cheap. The magnetic connections make contact with the wires via the pressure of the plastic housing they’re pressed into. Use needle nose pliers to pull the magnetic bits straight out and test continuity again.

If the battery leads are shorted, the charging LED does not come on. If the battery leads are disconnected, the charging LED flickers faintly.

With the battery disconnected and the charging leads connected in their regular position, I can power the unit on.

If there’s anything else you’d like me to test or measure let me know, I’m happy to help…


#8

So I need some help over here! I got a few drops of water near the base, but I fixed that. I took the base off and cleaned all the drops of water, but stupid me has a much bigger issue. When I cleaned the water off, I took the screws off the base so I can lift it slightly. I put the base back on and realized I didnt put the screws back (they don’t even matter, but I wanted to put them on for some reason). Note it worked at this point, so I really broke it now after the next step…Well, when I took the base off this time and guess I pulled too hard and now some of the wires got disconnected. Is there a way to fix them? Before I broke the wires like an idiot


#9

After (since I can only post one photo per message)


#10

So yes you can reconnect the motor wire at least, if you have a soldering iron. The wire to what I’m guessing is either the battery or the air pump might be a bit more difficult because it looks like where it goes might be epoxied? I would have to crack my max open in look.

But yeah, tl;dr: It does look fixable, but will require soldering.


#11

Yep, just got a soldering iron and watching some videos. Ya, that battery wire will be tough. Hopefully it works out!


#12

Cool, let me know how that works out!


#13

Wooo I did it! Just sat done to solder is today and fixed it. The vibrations and the air pump work. The battery doesn’t charge, so looks like that black wire only controlled the battery (under the epoxy tape). I tried to solder it to the old solder on the battery, but looks like I’d have to take off the epoxy to see exactly where. But I did it! It was a cheap solder from home depot, so pretty easy fix.


#14

Congrats! Glad you got it working again!