Frustrated: Am I screwed?

I’ll give the tl:dr; as the full story lacks signal/noise.

I got frustrated and did this to my MK-312bt board. Will my ATMEGA chip still be able to form an electrical connection? I’m new to soldering.

I’m new to the forum, so im not sure if this is the right place to post.

I suppose you could either try to extract the solder from the holes with a solder suction pump, or just drop the socket in while heating the board with hot air. Both require some specialized equipment which I’m not sure you’d have.

By the looks of it, you’d benefit from some more soldering practice. You can get cheap DIY kits or “suites” in the Chinese dialect of English :slight_smile: very cheaply to practice on.

Ah okay, I was actually more concerned with the damage I did to the board itself (scratches, burns, ripped pads etc.).

However, what you’re saying seems to imply that I don’t need to worry about that as much. Can you confirm?

Regarding the solder, I have solder wick that I can (kiiinda) use to extract the solder from the holes. So I’m actually not as concerned about that.

And yes, I could use some soldering practice haha. Maybe not the best project to take on with no soldering experience but :man_shrugging:

Scratches and burns can be only cosmetic, but not necessarily. Ripped pads are a real problem, you have to patch it up and check continuity across both sides of the PCB.

Awesome! This isn’t good news but I appreciate the info!

I realized I have some small wires. Instead of fixing the ripped pads, could I just hook the components together using these wires instead of using the pcb? Or am I oversimplifying?

Thanks again for your help!

That’s exactly what I mean by patching it up :stuck_out_tongue:


DO NOT try to fix the board. You will not be able to fix it and you will spend ridiculous amount of time troubleshooting. Toss it away and start again.

There is a lot of traps even with a good soldering skills.


  1. Lower temperature (270-300C).
  2. More flux (non corrosive!).
  3. Thinner solder (1mm max).
  4. LEADED solder (60/40, 63/37 does not matter) - no discussion.
  5. YT tutorials, it is not a rocket science.
  6. A lot of practice on throw away boards.

Im no expert but after my second attempt it was much easier…

I had a similar problem my first board… I used lead free solder. It was a nightmare. It’ll melt the first time heat is applied then after it cools and the oxide layer forms… good luck. Flux helps but still just avoid leadfree and use leaded solder.

Try to do the joint “right” the first try. The less you mess with it the better…

Heat the component leg and the board and introduce solder to the board not the iron tip.

Also keeping a clean tip on your iron helps. Add fresh solder and wipe it clean. A damp sponge and a copper mesh sponge are good for cleaning. If the tip is burnt and pitted, replace it.

When solder cools it forms oxides with the air. This thin layer resists heat and makes melting the joint harder. This is why people add flux, to dissolve the oxides, or add fresh solder. Keep this in mind if you’re reflowing a joint that has cooled.

Remember about thermal mass. Ground planes absorb heat and take a lot longer to get hot. Also a thin tip might be easier to get in cramped spaces but it will cool down quickly. Using a bigger tip will make it easier to keep the heat up.

These are the things I learned doing my second board. I finally got it to work after figuring out a trace that was supposed to be connected wasn’t. Diode test and the schematic helped me with this.